By fabric weight
| Cloth | Needle | Thread |
|---|---|---|
| Light woven (lawn, voile) | Microtex 60/8 to 70/10 | Fine all-purpose or fine polyester |
| Shirtweight woven | Universal 70/10 to 80/12 | Gütermann Sew-All or equal |
| Knit / jersey | Ballpoint or stretch 70/10 to 80/12 | All-purpose; stretch thread in the loopers if you serge |
| Bottomweight / denim | Jeans or universal 90/14 to 100/16 | All-purpose or topstitch for visible seams |
Schmetz publishes the system chart for needle types and sizes. A universal point is the default woven needle. Ballpoint slips between knit loops. Microtex is a sharp for tight weaves. Pair thread weight to the hole: a 100/16 hole with fine thread looks empty; a 60/8 hole with heavy topstitch thread will chew the cloth.