Order of work
- Will it ravel? Wovens ravel. Most knits do not need a ravel finish; they need a seam that stretches. Sewing.org fiber identification is the first cite if you do not know the cloth.
- How thick is the seam allowance? A French seam wants light cloth. A flat-fell wants a shirt or jeans weight that can take a second fold.
- Will the edge show? An unlined jacket wants a clean-finish or bound edge. A skirt lining hides a zigzag.
- Do you have a serger? An overlock is a finish. Without one, zigzag, pink, or turn-and-stitch still count.
| Finish | Cloth that takes it | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Pinked | Stable wovens that barely ravel | Scallops the edge. Fast. Not for a fraying linen. |
| Zigzag / overcast | Most wovens | Catches the edge on a regular machine. |
| Turn-and-stitch (clean-finish) | Light to medium wovens | Folds the allowance once and stitches it down. |
| French | Sheers and light shirtings | Encloses the raw edge inside a second seam. |
| Flat-fell | Shirts, jeans, sturdy cotton | A strong enclosed seam with a visible second row. |
Stitch types: stitches. Needle pairing: needle and thread. ASTM designations stay off this table unless the cited page is open.